PARIS (AP) — It was in strong, abstract strokes of color that Celine's Phoebe Philo expressed her spring-summer vibe for 2014.

The look-book that accompanied the warehouse ready-to-wear show in Paris explained more: The initial inspiration was a collection of photographs taken by famed photographer Brassai that captured surreal wall graffiti.

Defined by the primary red, blue and black of graffiti prints, many of the looks of the strong show had a distinct 1980s feel — continued in a series of large-collared coats.

But elsewhere, the oversized proportions in sleeves and surreal accessories, such a squared-circle necklace and must-have stilettos with a giant ball bearing, made sure that Philo kept her avant-garde edge.

Philo is a sensitive designer.

Pleats — a design feature seen on high rotation this Paris season — were used excessively on long, full or mid-length skirts, which gave a textural contrast to the spread out torso and flat graffiti prints.

It balanced silhouettes, giving them a gentle tension.


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