PARIS (AP) — Kenzo was all about making waves in a spring summer 2014 collection that was inspired by the open ocean.

Myriad rippled prints resembling frothing currents appeared first on truncated bodices then down tight and voluminous silhouettes. Hems on oversized tops and short shirts then caught the surf with dramatic wavy cuts.

It was the life aquatic.

Fatigued guests who had traveled far out of Paris got some relief at the early Sunday morning show on realizing there was some good old-fashioned fun to be had.

One section embraced printed patterned ultra-marine blue — the hue of the great open waters — as well as a bold mid blue and red, reminiscent of underwater sea life.

"Hailing from California, we have always been impressed by the ocean, its power, its constant change, its ability to cultivate life," said Humberto Leon, one half of the design duo that also includes Carol Lim.

"We like the idea of fusing classic tailoring with beach living," he added.

The prints worked well on some of the dresses, like a blue purple and white tight mid-thigh dress that was accessorized with a floppy blue beach hat. But elsewhere the prints seemed to lose their definition, such as one pattern across a grayish jacket and baggy pants that came across as busy and visually confusing.

The show was fun, but the much-used black and white palette seemed somehow to lessen the collection's overall energy.

But the "it" designers have had a series of critically successful color-rich seasons, and those are a hard act to follow.


Thomas Adamson can be followed at


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