PARIS (AP) — Swimwear and naval themes inspired Anthony Vaccarello this season.

But if only it could be this simple.

For spring-summer 2014 the young Belgian designer infused these references with his signature no-holds-barred raunchiness.

Most of the 34 looks dripped with sex appeal in their melange of plunging necklines and breast-exposing mesh tops. That's not to mention myriad revealing straps which held together cave-woman style loin cloths.

At points, ensembles evoked the aura of Donatella Versace.

But it was pure overkill with one splash-dye, cropped, white demin jacket which jarred against a split microskirt with red and black leather straps.

The best designs were, predictably, those that kept it simple.

One all-black look nicely twinned a thick, textured cropped T-shirt with a cotton vest that — only slightly — exposed the midriff. It was twinned with sober and classical black pants.

Another nude, sparkling sheer minidress worked well — but only thanks to the simplicity of its silhouette, which was given a lift with huge, oversize studs.

The designer revealed backstage that these shiny studs were, in fact, smooth rounded gems. It was a rare, lovely touch.

Next season Vaccarello might do well to tone it down a notch or three.


Thomas Adamson can be reached at


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